Melk. I've seen the big monastery many times, but only from a far distance. I camp at the foot of the hill it is built on. It is enormous. I won't go in. It is expensive. I don't pay to visit religious buildings. Ever.
My neighbours at the campsite are leaving. They are equiped well, experienced travellers. Two bikes and a small cart behind it. Their tiny baby daughter is in it.
Her father changes her diapers before they leave. She cries. He says: "Look, a leaf!" He gives her the leaf and talks about the leaf, how beautiful it is and how green. She holds it in her hands and looks at it. She is silent.
They take off. I wave them out.